ANKC Extended Samoyed Standard
Copyright Australian National Kennel Council 2007
Country of Origin ~ Northern Russia and Siberia
Country of Origin ~ Northern Russia and Siberia
* GENERAL APPEARANCE
The Samoyed being essentially a working dog should be strong and active and graceful, and as his work lies in cold climates his coat should be heavy and weather-resisting. He should not be too long in back, as a weak back would make him practically useless for his legitimate work; but at the same time a
cobby body, such as a Chow’s would also place him at a great disadvantage as a draught dog. Breeders should aim for the happy medium, viz. a body not long, but muscular, allowing liberty, with a deep chest and well sprung ribs, strong
neck proudly arched, straight front and exceptionally strong loins. Both dogs and bitches should give the appearance of being capable of great endurance but should be free from coarseness.
A full-grown dog should stand about 53.5cm (21 ins.) at the shoulder. On account of the depth of chest required the legs
should be moderately long, a very short-legged dog is to be deprecated. Hindquarters should be particularly well developed, stifles well angulated, and any suggestion of unsound stifles or cowhocks severely penalised.
Strong, active, graceful ... these qualities are absolutely basic to the breed and every breeder and judge should have them in the forefront of their consciousness when considering their dogs. The strength comes from good bone and muscle development, but this must be allied to action and grace of movement. A typical Samoyed is rarely still when standing - he is poised and ready for instant action upon the slightest pretext.
The Samoyed being essentially a working dog should be strong and active and graceful, and as his work lies in cold climates his coat should be heavy and weather-resisting. He should not be too long in back, as a weak back would make him practically useless for his legitimate work; but at the same time a
cobby body, such as a Chow’s would also place him at a great disadvantage as a draught dog. Breeders should aim for the happy medium, viz. a body not long, but muscular, allowing liberty, with a deep chest and well sprung ribs, strong
neck proudly arched, straight front and exceptionally strong loins. Both dogs and bitches should give the appearance of being capable of great endurance but should be free from coarseness.
A full-grown dog should stand about 53.5cm (21 ins.) at the shoulder. On account of the depth of chest required the legs
should be moderately long, a very short-legged dog is to be deprecated. Hindquarters should be particularly well developed, stifles well angulated, and any suggestion of unsound stifles or cowhocks severely penalised.
Strong, active, graceful ... these qualities are absolutely basic to the breed and every breeder and judge should have them in the forefront of their consciousness when considering their dogs. The strength comes from good bone and muscle development, but this must be allied to action and grace of movement. A typical Samoyed is rarely still when standing - he is poised and ready for instant action upon the slightest pretext.
* CHARACTERISTICS
The Samoyed is intelligent, alert, full of action but above all displaying affection towards all mankind.
Living as they did in the tents of the Samoyed people for many centuries, the dogs developed a wonderful relationship with human beings. They are intelligent and independent, giving and expecting affection to a high degree. To be starved of human
contact is intolerable to this breed, and therefore, whilst they can be kept quite satisfactorily in kennels, they need daily attention and occasional longer periods of close relationships with people. After centuries of sleeping in native “chooms”, can you deny them the occasional night on your bed? A snappy, ill-tempered Samoyed is extremely rare if he has been treated correctly from puppy hood, for it is most unnatural to see a healthy puppy shy away from human affection. It is a mistake to underestimate the effect which environment has upon Samoyeds. Where an adult dog does develop ill temper despite good handling, it is a real disservice to the breed to perpetuate that line.
* TEMPERAMENT - (See under Characteristics.)
Temperament is a very important aspect of the Samoyed breed. A dog, which shows unprovoked aggressiveness to humans in the ring, should never win a high place.
However, this should not be confused with arguments among the dogs themselves particularly stud dogs, for remember that the instinct of the pack is still near the surface.
The Samoyed is intelligent, alert, full of action but above all displaying affection towards all mankind.
Living as they did in the tents of the Samoyed people for many centuries, the dogs developed a wonderful relationship with human beings. They are intelligent and independent, giving and expecting affection to a high degree. To be starved of human
contact is intolerable to this breed, and therefore, whilst they can be kept quite satisfactorily in kennels, they need daily attention and occasional longer periods of close relationships with people. After centuries of sleeping in native “chooms”, can you deny them the occasional night on your bed? A snappy, ill-tempered Samoyed is extremely rare if he has been treated correctly from puppy hood, for it is most unnatural to see a healthy puppy shy away from human affection. It is a mistake to underestimate the effect which environment has upon Samoyeds. Where an adult dog does develop ill temper despite good handling, it is a real disservice to the breed to perpetuate that line.
* TEMPERAMENT - (See under Characteristics.)
Temperament is a very important aspect of the Samoyed breed. A dog, which shows unprovoked aggressiveness to humans in the ring, should never win a high place.
However, this should not be confused with arguments among the dogs themselves particularly stud dogs, for remember that the instinct of the pack is still near the surface.
* HEAD AND SKULL
Head powerful and wedge-shaped with a broad, flat skull, muzzle of medium length, a tapering fore-face not too sharply defined. Lips black. Hair short and smooth before the ears. Nose black for preference, but may be brown or flesh coloured.
Strong jaws.
The correct head is seen in fig. 3. It comes from the broad skull allied to a medium stop. It is a mistake to imagine that the stop must be VERY pronounced to give a powerful head. On the other hand, little or no stop produces a plain face and thus, as in many other features, what is ideal is the “happy medium”.
The wedge described in the Standard is seen when the face is viewed from above and the face fringes are pushed back. It begins below the ears and finishes at the nose.
The black nose is preferred but lighter colours are permitted because many dogs lose pigment to some degree during the winter.
Head powerful and wedge-shaped with a broad, flat skull, muzzle of medium length, a tapering fore-face not too sharply defined. Lips black. Hair short and smooth before the ears. Nose black for preference, but may be brown or flesh coloured.
Strong jaws.
The correct head is seen in fig. 3. It comes from the broad skull allied to a medium stop. It is a mistake to imagine that the stop must be VERY pronounced to give a powerful head. On the other hand, little or no stop produces a plain face and thus, as in many other features, what is ideal is the “happy medium”.
The wedge described in the Standard is seen when the face is viewed from above and the face fringes are pushed back. It begins below the ears and finishes at the nose.
The black nose is preferred but lighter colours are permitted because many dogs lose pigment to some degree during the winter.
* EYES
Almond shaped, medium to dark brown in colour, set well apart with alert and intelligent expression. Eye rims should be black and unbroken.
The almond shaped eye should be set so that the tapering end points towards the base of the ear, and this correct set of eye can easily be seen in a puppy. Good width between the eyes is essential to balance the required width of skull and to preserve the proportions of the wedge-shaped head. The colour range cannot be emphasized too strongly - medium to dark brown. The really expressive eye is brown, and eyes, which are too light or too dark, detract from this important aspect of the Samoyed expression.
It must be remembered however, that a puppy with very dark eyes will probably change as it gets older, obtaining the correct shade of brown at about two years of age.
Almond shaped, medium to dark brown in colour, set well apart with alert and intelligent expression. Eye rims should be black and unbroken.
The almond shaped eye should be set so that the tapering end points towards the base of the ear, and this correct set of eye can easily be seen in a puppy. Good width between the eyes is essential to balance the required width of skull and to preserve the proportions of the wedge-shaped head. The colour range cannot be emphasized too strongly - medium to dark brown. The really expressive eye is brown, and eyes, which are too light or too dark, detract from this important aspect of the Samoyed expression.
It must be remembered however, that a puppy with very dark eyes will probably change as it gets older, obtaining the correct shade of brown at about two years of age.
* EARS
Thick, not too long and slightly rounded at the tips, set well apart and well covered inside with hair. The ears should be fully erect in the grown dog.
The thick, well-furred ears of a Samoyed are delightful and are a most distinctive feature of the breed. As suggested in the Standard, the length should be medium, precisely what is acceptable in an individual dog or bitch depends upon the all-important aspect of balance of the whole face. Ears are strong, thick, erect, triangular, not large or pointed, set well apart, mobile, well covered with hair inside.
Thick, not too long and slightly rounded at the tips, set well apart and well covered inside with hair. The ears should be fully erect in the grown dog.
The thick, well-furred ears of a Samoyed are delightful and are a most distinctive feature of the breed. As suggested in the Standard, the length should be medium, precisely what is acceptable in an individual dog or bitch depends upon the all-important aspect of balance of the whole face. Ears are strong, thick, erect, triangular, not large or pointed, set well apart, mobile, well covered with hair inside.
* MOUTH
Upper teeth should just overlap the under teeth in a scissor bite.
The correct placement of teeth can be seen easily by turning back the lips immediately under the nose. Just as the blades of scissors close one behind the other, but in very close contact, so the teeth should do the same, with the upper teeth overlapping the lower.
* NECK
Proudly arched.
It should be strong, and not too short.
* FOREQUARTERS
Legs straight and muscular with good bone.
Viewed from the front, the legs should be set reasonably well apart if the chest is well developed, but not too far to give the impression of “barrel” chest a dog with this fault will roll as he moves and the front legs will be thrown slightly outwards, instead of moving directly forward. When standing, the front legs should appear parallel throughout their length. Good bone is essential, of round shape, but must be in relation to the size of the dog. Legs should be of moderate length, giving a balanced appearance. They should be neither too long nor too short, neither of which would detract from his ability to work, but slightly long is preferable to too short.
Upper teeth should just overlap the under teeth in a scissor bite.
The correct placement of teeth can be seen easily by turning back the lips immediately under the nose. Just as the blades of scissors close one behind the other, but in very close contact, so the teeth should do the same, with the upper teeth overlapping the lower.
* NECK
Proudly arched.
It should be strong, and not too short.
* FOREQUARTERS
Legs straight and muscular with good bone.
Viewed from the front, the legs should be set reasonably well apart if the chest is well developed, but not too far to give the impression of “barrel” chest a dog with this fault will roll as he moves and the front legs will be thrown slightly outwards, instead of moving directly forward. When standing, the front legs should appear parallel throughout their length. Good bone is essential, of round shape, but must be in relation to the size of the dog. Legs should be of moderate length, giving a balanced appearance. They should be neither too long nor too short, neither of which would detract from his ability to work, but slightly long is preferable to too short.
* BODY
Back medium in length, broad and very muscular. Chest broad and deep ribs well sprung, giving plenty of heart and lung room.
The back is that part of the back line composed of the five vertebrae between the withers and the loin -the ninth to the thirteenth vertebrae inclusive. The Samoyed, being essentially a working dog, should be strong, active and graceful. He should not be too long in the back, as a weak back would make him practically useless for his legitimate work; but at the same time a cobby body, such as found with a Chow, would also place him at a real disadvantage as a draught dog. Breeders should aim for a happy medium, viz. a body not long, but muscular, allowing liberty, with a deep chest and well-sprung ribs, strong neck proudly arched, straight front and exceptionally strong loins. Both dogs and bitches should give the appearance of being capable of great endurance, but should be free from coarseness. On account of the depth of chest required the legs should be moderately long, a very short-legged dog is to be deprecated. It should be remembered that a bitch’s back needs to be slightly longer than that of a dog if she is to whelp easily. Furthermore, their legitimate work was a mixture of hunting, herding and sledge pulling, and thus the strength of body needed must not be achieved at the expense of excessive weight, for an unduly heavy dog would soon become useless.
* HINDQUARTERS
Very muscular, stifles well angulated; cow hocks or straight stifles very objectionable.
The stifles should make an angle of 45 degrees with the ground. Note the emphasis on good muscle. An unsound stifle is one in which the stifle joint is loose. This can be felt, and even more readily seen when the dog moves, for a loose joint here produces a sloppy lower leg movement.
Back medium in length, broad and very muscular. Chest broad and deep ribs well sprung, giving plenty of heart and lung room.
The back is that part of the back line composed of the five vertebrae between the withers and the loin -the ninth to the thirteenth vertebrae inclusive. The Samoyed, being essentially a working dog, should be strong, active and graceful. He should not be too long in the back, as a weak back would make him practically useless for his legitimate work; but at the same time a cobby body, such as found with a Chow, would also place him at a real disadvantage as a draught dog. Breeders should aim for a happy medium, viz. a body not long, but muscular, allowing liberty, with a deep chest and well-sprung ribs, strong neck proudly arched, straight front and exceptionally strong loins. Both dogs and bitches should give the appearance of being capable of great endurance, but should be free from coarseness. On account of the depth of chest required the legs should be moderately long, a very short-legged dog is to be deprecated. It should be remembered that a bitch’s back needs to be slightly longer than that of a dog if she is to whelp easily. Furthermore, their legitimate work was a mixture of hunting, herding and sledge pulling, and thus the strength of body needed must not be achieved at the expense of excessive weight, for an unduly heavy dog would soon become useless.
* HINDQUARTERS
Very muscular, stifles well angulated; cow hocks or straight stifles very objectionable.
The stifles should make an angle of 45 degrees with the ground. Note the emphasis on good muscle. An unsound stifle is one in which the stifle joint is loose. This can be felt, and even more readily seen when the dog moves, for a loose joint here produces a sloppy lower leg movement.
* FEET
Long, flattish and slightly spread out. Soles well cushioned with hair. Another typical feature of the Samoyed. The front feet are not quite so long as the rear ones, but the front legs have the intermediate pastern between leg and foot. In a well-exercised dog the pastern makes an angle of 60-70 degrees with the ground. A well feathered foot. The featherings on the top of the feet extending forward and to the sides are as important as the cushioning of the pads with dense hair underneath. A well feathered foot. |
* TAIL
Long and profuse, carried over the back when alert; sometimes dropped when at rest.
The plume is one of the crowning glories of the dog, and the best-set tail is the one, which is carried over and close to the back, with the long fur dropping to one side.
Individuals vary in dropping the tail - some drop it even when obviously interested! However, since it is such an important part of the outline, it should normally be seen over the back. Young bitches tend to drop the tail when near to their season, especially if prospective boy friends appear!
Long and profuse, carried over the back when alert; sometimes dropped when at rest.
The plume is one of the crowning glories of the dog, and the best-set tail is the one, which is carried over and close to the back, with the long fur dropping to one side.
Individuals vary in dropping the tail - some drop it even when obviously interested! However, since it is such an important part of the outline, it should normally be seen over the back. Young bitches tend to drop the tail when near to their season, especially if prospective boy friends appear!
* GAIT / MOVEMENT
Should move freely with a strong agile drive showing power and elegance.
Gait is not easy to assess and ability to appreciate it comes only from prolonged observation. Power comes from the back legs and they should give the impression that as the dog moves he is trying to push something away behind him from under his feet. The correct gait is not simply an easy swinging movement! Viewed from the rear, the back legs should move forward in a straight line from the hips downwards without any deviation whatsoever. Any lateral movement from side to side when seen from the rear suggests poor hips and/or poor muscle. The elegance is seen to best advantage from the side when the dog, is trotting; the whole carriage becomes erect and the movement should appear easy, neat and controlled.
Should move freely with a strong agile drive showing power and elegance.
Gait is not easy to assess and ability to appreciate it comes only from prolonged observation. Power comes from the back legs and they should give the impression that as the dog moves he is trying to push something away behind him from under his feet. The correct gait is not simply an easy swinging movement! Viewed from the rear, the back legs should move forward in a straight line from the hips downwards without any deviation whatsoever. Any lateral movement from side to side when seen from the rear suggests poor hips and/or poor muscle. The elegance is seen to best advantage from the side when the dog, is trotting; the whole carriage becomes erect and the movement should appear easy, neat and controlled.
* COAT
The body should be well covered with a thick, close, soft and short undercoat, with harsh hair growing through it, forming the outer coat, which should stand straight away from the body and be free from curl.
The double coat is most important in the Samoyed, but the dogs carry a rather longer outer coat than do the bitches, though the latter should not just have a dense single coat. The long coat in the dog should not be so long as to become flowing - it should be harsh and off standing, while the bitch’s is usually slightly softer in texture.
When the coat is cast, it is mainly the undercoat, which comes away, and which may be spun; the outer coat is useless for this purpose.
* COLOUR
Pure white; white and biscuit; cream.
Although the pure white coat is the most popular, most Samoyed owners of long standing accept the particular beauty and quality of a delicately shaded dog. Usually a shaded coat is harsher in texture, and if a line is developing very soft coats it may be useful to introduce a slightly coloured line.
Many dogs develop some biscuit shading, as they grow older. Where colour appears on the face, however, it is important that it should not produce an unpleasant expression, such as “spectacle” rings round the eyes. Little spots of colour on the fore-face are referred to as “tea stains” and are quite acceptable, if not unpleasantly obtrusive. Ears are usually the most common point for biscuit colouring and use of biscuit colouring in breeding is frequently allied to good pigmentation. Silver tips will be noticed when the coat catches the light.
* SIZE
Dogs 51-56 cms (20-22 ins) at the shoulder.
Bitches 46-51 cms (18-20 ins) at the shoulder.
Weight in proportion to size.
There is a considerable variation between 46 and 56 centimetres - a point which is not always remembered in the showring, for both ends of the scale should be acceptable. A 46 cms bitch should be neat and petite in appearance, and while in her native home she would not have been used for draught work, nevertheless she could easily make an excellent herder and hunter. Conversely, a 56 cm high dog needs very good bone and muscle combined with a very firm body; such a dog would
be capable of any type of work, which came his way. Those who use such Samoyed's for sledge-work report that although they do not break any speed records, nevertheless they are capable of covering long distances without showing the signs of fatigue, which soon become apparent with larger dogs.
The dog’s height is measured at the shoulder. This may be found by feeling two bones, which are close together on the back, almost directly above the front legs. These bones correspond to the shoulder blades in the human being. To determine the height accurately, the dog should be measured when out of coat with the same kind of device as is used for human beings. A rough guide can be achieved against a wall with the dog standing upon a firm surface, and placing a guide across its back at the correct point. In the interests of reasonable accuracy it is best if this guide incorporates a spirit level.
* FAULTS
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in the exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.
Severe unprovoked aggressiveness.
Long fore-face.
Blue or very light eyes.
Big ears with very little feathering.
Drop ears. Narrow width between ears.
A bull neck.
A long body.
Slack tail carriage; it should be carried well over the back, though it may drop when the dog is at rest.
Round, cat-like feet.
A soft coat; a wavy coat; absence of undercoat.
Absence of feathering.
Black or black spots.
Any sign of unsound movement.
* NOTE
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Finally, it should be obvious that the essence of the Standard is concerned with the medium, well-balanced dog. Extremes should be avoided, but good power and muscle are essential in proportion to body size. If this is remembered, the Samoyed will remain true to his ancestry and we will have the satisfaction of knowing that this dog is as nature intended him to be.
The body should be well covered with a thick, close, soft and short undercoat, with harsh hair growing through it, forming the outer coat, which should stand straight away from the body and be free from curl.
The double coat is most important in the Samoyed, but the dogs carry a rather longer outer coat than do the bitches, though the latter should not just have a dense single coat. The long coat in the dog should not be so long as to become flowing - it should be harsh and off standing, while the bitch’s is usually slightly softer in texture.
When the coat is cast, it is mainly the undercoat, which comes away, and which may be spun; the outer coat is useless for this purpose.
* COLOUR
Pure white; white and biscuit; cream.
Although the pure white coat is the most popular, most Samoyed owners of long standing accept the particular beauty and quality of a delicately shaded dog. Usually a shaded coat is harsher in texture, and if a line is developing very soft coats it may be useful to introduce a slightly coloured line.
Many dogs develop some biscuit shading, as they grow older. Where colour appears on the face, however, it is important that it should not produce an unpleasant expression, such as “spectacle” rings round the eyes. Little spots of colour on the fore-face are referred to as “tea stains” and are quite acceptable, if not unpleasantly obtrusive. Ears are usually the most common point for biscuit colouring and use of biscuit colouring in breeding is frequently allied to good pigmentation. Silver tips will be noticed when the coat catches the light.
* SIZE
Dogs 51-56 cms (20-22 ins) at the shoulder.
Bitches 46-51 cms (18-20 ins) at the shoulder.
Weight in proportion to size.
There is a considerable variation between 46 and 56 centimetres - a point which is not always remembered in the showring, for both ends of the scale should be acceptable. A 46 cms bitch should be neat and petite in appearance, and while in her native home she would not have been used for draught work, nevertheless she could easily make an excellent herder and hunter. Conversely, a 56 cm high dog needs very good bone and muscle combined with a very firm body; such a dog would
be capable of any type of work, which came his way. Those who use such Samoyed's for sledge-work report that although they do not break any speed records, nevertheless they are capable of covering long distances without showing the signs of fatigue, which soon become apparent with larger dogs.
The dog’s height is measured at the shoulder. This may be found by feeling two bones, which are close together on the back, almost directly above the front legs. These bones correspond to the shoulder blades in the human being. To determine the height accurately, the dog should be measured when out of coat with the same kind of device as is used for human beings. A rough guide can be achieved against a wall with the dog standing upon a firm surface, and placing a guide across its back at the correct point. In the interests of reasonable accuracy it is best if this guide incorporates a spirit level.
* FAULTS
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in the exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.
Severe unprovoked aggressiveness.
Long fore-face.
Blue or very light eyes.
Big ears with very little feathering.
Drop ears. Narrow width between ears.
A bull neck.
A long body.
Slack tail carriage; it should be carried well over the back, though it may drop when the dog is at rest.
Round, cat-like feet.
A soft coat; a wavy coat; absence of undercoat.
Absence of feathering.
Black or black spots.
Any sign of unsound movement.
* NOTE
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Finally, it should be obvious that the essence of the Standard is concerned with the medium, well-balanced dog. Extremes should be avoided, but good power and muscle are essential in proportion to body size. If this is remembered, the Samoyed will remain true to his ancestry and we will have the satisfaction of knowing that this dog is as nature intended him to be.
* CONFORMATION - JUDGING THE SAMOYED
The Samoyed should present a picture of beauty, alertness, strength, agility, dignity and grace; should give the appearance of being capable of great endurance but free of all coarseness.
Males should be masculine in appearance and deportment without unwarranted aggressiveness.
Bitches should be feminine without weakness of structure or softness of temperament.
The Samoyed should never be so heavy as to appear clumsy not so light as to appear racy. Bone should be in proportion to body size and weight should be in proportion to height.
Skull is wedge shaped with a broad, flat skull; should form an equilateral triangle on lines between the inner base of the ears and the centre point of the stop.
Ears are strong, thick, erect, triangular, not too large or pointed, set well apart, mobile, well covered with hair inside.
Stop is not too well defined.
Muzzle is of medium length and width, neither coarse nor snipey and must have depth. Black nose is preferred.
Dark eyes preferred, laced well apart, deep-set, almond shaped with lower lid slanting to base of ear.
Jaws and teeth strong, well set snugly overlapping with scissor bite. Overshot or undershot should be penalised. Lips should be black for preference, slightly curved up at the corners of the mouth, lip lines should not be course, and flews should not drop down at the corners of the mouth.
Samoyed expression is very important. The sparkle of the eyes, animation and erect ears when alert, curving lips which form the “Samoyed Smile”, all combine to form the beautiful expression of all good Samoyeds.
Height: Males 51 – 56 cms (20 – 22 ins); females 46 – 51 cms (18 – 20 ins) at the withers. An oversized or undersized Samoyed is to be penalised according to the extent of the deviation.
The Samoyed is double coated. The quality should be weather resistant and consideredmore than quantity. A droopy coat is undesirable.
Colour is pure white, white and biscuit or all cream.
The Samoyed should present a picture of beauty, alertness, strength, agility, dignity and grace; should give the appearance of being capable of great endurance but free of all coarseness.
Males should be masculine in appearance and deportment without unwarranted aggressiveness.
Bitches should be feminine without weakness of structure or softness of temperament.
The Samoyed should never be so heavy as to appear clumsy not so light as to appear racy. Bone should be in proportion to body size and weight should be in proportion to height.
Skull is wedge shaped with a broad, flat skull; should form an equilateral triangle on lines between the inner base of the ears and the centre point of the stop.
Ears are strong, thick, erect, triangular, not too large or pointed, set well apart, mobile, well covered with hair inside.
Stop is not too well defined.
Muzzle is of medium length and width, neither coarse nor snipey and must have depth. Black nose is preferred.
Dark eyes preferred, laced well apart, deep-set, almond shaped with lower lid slanting to base of ear.
Jaws and teeth strong, well set snugly overlapping with scissor bite. Overshot or undershot should be penalised. Lips should be black for preference, slightly curved up at the corners of the mouth, lip lines should not be course, and flews should not drop down at the corners of the mouth.
Samoyed expression is very important. The sparkle of the eyes, animation and erect ears when alert, curving lips which form the “Samoyed Smile”, all combine to form the beautiful expression of all good Samoyeds.
Height: Males 51 – 56 cms (20 – 22 ins); females 46 – 51 cms (18 – 20 ins) at the withers. An oversized or undersized Samoyed is to be penalised according to the extent of the deviation.
The Samoyed is double coated. The quality should be weather resistant and consideredmore than quantity. A droopy coat is undesirable.
Colour is pure white, white and biscuit or all cream.